Mount Tanigawa (谷川岳)
Region: Kanto, Nigata Prefecture
Elevation: 1,977 m (6,486 ft)
Coordinates: 36°50′14″N 138°55′47″E
Located in Mikuni Mountain range on the border of Gunma and Nigata prefecture. The summit has 2 twin peaks Tomanomimi (トマノ耳) and Okinomimi (オキノ耳). Now I know why it is called “Mountain of Evil”. It’s not because the handful of steep cliffs and rocky sections, it’s not because of multiple sections with chains and ladders to help you on the narrow ridge line, is not the elevation (1977M), and not the bells along the trail to scare the bears – it is sudden and unpredictable change of weather that claimed over 800 lives.
We parked in the parking lot in visitor information center and walked about 15-minute to gondola station to Mt Tanigawa (谷川岳). We took gondola up instead of taking service road that runs parallel with gondola lead all the way to station/trailhead (we hiked down our way back – it is about ½ Km from top to gondola station/parking lot).
From gondola we’ve we hiked up around the ski path all the way to the hut (official trailhead it seems) - refueled with some snacks and water then started the hike toward the summit. It was clear sunny day, and the panoramic view is stunning. There are several steep cliffs, rocky areas as well as handful of ladders and wooden paths as well. But there are chains and ropes to help climb. Haruki demonstrated his training in indoor climbing by navigating rocky areas without chains with incredible speed. I was getting nervous - I stopped him and explained that people are clearly annoyed and concerned (rightfully so) and asked to slow down.
As we reached towards the peak heavy layer of cold cloud surrounded us - stunning view of surrounding mountains disappeared. I could not see anything beyond few meters - the visibility was so poor (this is something I’ve never experienced). Haruki was way ahead of me (as he was annoyed with me after the talk we had, and I guess he wanted to get away from me) and was not visible to me. He was sitting on a rock by the hut just before the peak, shaking his head and said “dad, you are slower than my death grandma”.
It was cold and weather was worsening rapidly, so we started our hike back without spending anytime (after all nothing was visible). Downhill is my weak point – coming down very rocky trail with lots of chains and ladders, terrified me. I was forced to slow down and Haru, again demonstrated his indoor rock-climbing training and led the way down. I thanked him and told him how proud I am of him. He was still upset and said, “now you are telling me but you were lecturing me up there – you got to trust me”. Well, another adventure ended in high note.
One of the highlights of this adventure was visiting Doai Station, said to be the world most haunted and Japan’s deepest station. We went down all the way to the platform – it is very spooky with never ending stairs. By the time we walked down to the platform and back to the top we’ve already taken nearly1000 stairs.
Notes:
Take hiking gloves (if not for cold weather, for chains and ladders). Carry enough water (there’s no water source on the hike).
Take extra base layer (or two) and wind breaker.
There is a coin operated toilet by the hut near the peak (but I don’t recommend).
